福建炒麵

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福建麵。
福建炒麵是一種源于吉隆坡的華人傳統麵食,也是當地的代表性美食之一,在吉隆坡當地人一般都稱之為福建麵或稱福建炒,在馬來半島地方,也有人將其稱為福建炒大碌麵[1]。
背景
福建炒麵起源于在1920年代至1930年代的茨廠街,是早期福建籍的移民所販售的麵食,所以該料理被冠上“福建”這名號。其所料理的方式是繼承與福建沿海一帶,但這種麵食在福建一帶無法尋獲,是早期移民至吉隆坡的華人為適應當地炎熱氣候所研發的麵食。
在文獻記載中,來自中國福建泉州安溪的王金蓮是第一位販售福建炒麵的人,他在1927年移民至馬來亞後,在吉隆坡的茨廠街附近設攤擺賣家鄉麵食[2]。最初販賣湯麵為主,后來為適應南洋人因天氣悶熱而嗜好口味重的料理,開始在麵內加入比目魚粉、黑醬油、巴拉盞、辣椒醬等,并且把湯汁燜炒成濃稠半濕狀,呈現烏黑且味道濃郁的麵食,這也是福建炒麵的雛形[3]。隨著王金蓮的炒麵開始在吉隆坡的華人社區廣為人知後,他也開始在思士街與茨廠街的交接口開設了金蓮記,這家店也成為目前吉隆坡著名的老字號,目前已傳至第三代。目前福建炒麵已成為吉隆坡的代表性美食,營業者或廚師已不限於福建籍人士,因吉隆坡一帶是廣東人聚集地,販賣福建炒麵的店家通常也會販售廣府式的炒麵。
福建炒面一般多使用粗大的鹼水黃麵配上豬油、蝦子、黑醬油、豬肉片、花枝、高麗菜、豬骨高湯等材料燜炒,使用的時候搭配參巴辣椒醬,在吉隆坡一帶的華人社群是非常流行的麵食,在一些路邊攤或炒粉店都可找到它的蹤影,當地人認為最好的福建炒麵是需要使用炭火來煮炒[4]。
參考
^ 知食品味尋寶圖.歷史的味道 互联网档案馆的存檔,存档日期2014-12-09.
^ 吉隆坡福建麵
^ 金蓮記
^ 好吃的食物‧好聽的故事 互联网档案馆的存檔,存档日期2014-12-10.
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